Holy Week, Semana Santa on the Camino

We are deep into Holy Week, the week before Easter Sunday.

It is a busy time in church-land and an even busier time in Spain.  And I think one of the most wonderful times to be on the Camino.

First of all, there are many Spaniards on the Camino as many have the whole week off.  As you know if you have walked the Camino, Spaniards are in a minority on the Way, so it is lovely to be with them during Semana Santa.

The other wonderful Camino events are the ceremonies and observances in the communities which combine the joyous and the solemn. Statues and religious figures are brought out of the churches and paraded through the street. For this, they are decorated with flowers and palms and maybe gowns (like a new blue cloak for the Virgin Mary). These figures are placed on platforms that are either carried or wheeled through the streets.

Along with this will be a marching band and groups of officials representing different institutions like the military, the police, and city officials. The men are in uniforms and the women in dresses with a mantilla over their hair. There are also groups of members of co-fraternities representing different trades or professions, church groups or service clubs.  These are the people who will often carry or pull along the statues.  

These are the penitents and penitence is to be anonymous. They are dressed in, and this can be a surprise to visitors, what we could think of as the clothing of the Klu-Klux-Klan, gown and cowl to cover their face.    As I am sure the Spaniards have been using this clothing for centuries, I think we can say that the KKK practices cultural appropriation!

My first Semana Santa was in the city of Leon. The statues were being decorated all day in a courtyard next to the pilgrims’ hostel. And on Palm Sunday out they came! They were carried on the shoulders of penitents in black robes and some were barefoot, and it was not warm!

Later in the week, in Astorga, I again was able to watch another procession, and I saw the amazing sight of children dressed in gowns and cowls, even a toddler in a stroller!

Come Easter Day and the day of great celebration and joy for the Resurrection.  Last year, I was in the city of Jaca, in the province of Huesca for Easter Day (near the village of Canfranc where I was a hostel volunteer) Now it was all white, gold and blue. Two parades left from different quarters of the city, one with a statue of Jesus and the other with the Virgin Mary. Drummers, traditional to the region, were part of each procession. The two parades met in front of the cathedral. Mass was next and the cathedral was packed.

Such a joy and privilege to be part of these observances and celebrations.