Here I am, early April (2022), back on the Camino, the famous Way of Saint James – Santiago – the pilgrim path to the city of Santiago de Compostela in north-western Spain. Back, yes, but the last time I did this was 17 years ago on the Camino Francés, the most travelled and popular route. This time my path and destination are very different. I am on the more ancient but far less frequented Camino Aragonés, which lies east of the Francès.
And more important still, my destination is not Santiago but the village of Canfranc just over the border from France in a narrow valley in the Spanish Pyrenes. I am to be a volunteer at a pilgrims’ hostel. The tradition for hospitalera/o is to walk the Camino to your albergue.
Because it is early spring, I had decided, that instead of going west from France and climbing over the Somport mountain pass in the snow and fog, I would go the opposite direction and walk in from the Spanish side. My starting point, Sanguesa, gives me seven days of walking.
Since I did the Camino those many years ago, water has flowed under the bridge, years on bones and muscles and apparently modified my idea of adventure and comfort. Let me hasten to say it is great to be back, but it is quite tough. I am out of my comfort zone, and that is not a bad thing, and especially invigorating when you reach my old years!
Mornings are lovely: I set off – fresh me, fresh crisp air, fresh chirpy bird songs, legs rested, shoulders finding my pack no burden. But at about the seven-kilometre mark, the sun higher, the wind brisker, I now feel the challenge setting in. Legs tiring, shifting the pack around to find a comfortable place on my shoulders. Many of my days, between hostels, is in the 10 to 12 km range. HOWEVER, as I am walking in fact backwards along the Camino, it is a challenge to actually find the right path and I take several, well many, wrong turns and extra frustrating kilometres.
People sympathize when I tell them this. Others are amazed and cannot imagine finding their way without being able to follow the reassuring yellow arrows that are painted along the route. But some people, Grrrr, cannot understand what the problem is: ‘Well don’t you use MapStepMe, or BuenCamino app, and Google maps will always tell you where you are!’ And they take out their phones to demonstrate. Yes, I do use the apps, and yes you can see where you are, but that does not mean you are on the Camino. It shows paths, but they don’t light up the Camino in yellow, it is just another line on your screen. I am moving forward, sometimes sideways, but I need to be on the actual Camino. And guess what? Some of those paths end up in a ploughed field! Grrrr.
For the packing: I am very proud to report I did well. From my last Camino: my pack, hat and sleeping back still going strong. My decision to take along a long silk nightgown to use with a T-shirt is perfect. I am the only one in the dormitories thus attired.
Mountains on the left, where I was heading.
Talking of dormitories – another challenge to my comfort zone. They can be crowded, nowhere to put your stuff and often with upper and lower bunks. (not talking about the snorers here..) On the day I reach Arrès, hot and windy, a village perched on a fortified hilltop, it is the longest leg- 18 km, I nearly crawl up the hill on all fours. The hostel is nearly full. ‘Please, please may I have a lower bunk’ I gasp. Bless him, a lovely student from Chile moved up and left me his lower bunk.
Later, some self-righteous person remarks that they did not think I should use the ’old lady’ card for a lower bunk. “You bet I can!” I replied. And for that sweet young fellow, it was just like being kind to his granny!