Oh oh, am I becoming one of those grumpy oldies parroting on about how it used to be in my days – as in so much better. Hmm, I do catch myself in that frame of mind. Well, I can safely say it was very different (and if you hear a little voice saying ‘better’, that could just be your imagination.) I am talking here – Camino.
When I walked the Camino Francès, it was nearly 20 years ago. We set out from St-Jean-Pied-de-Port on May 1st (big holiday weekend) and it was busy, but pleasantly so. Lots of other pilgrims from all over Europe and some from Canada and points beyond. Krysia, my pilgrim companion and I had been careful about our packs and their weight as we were carrying them on our backs. But for the planning, we had a couple of photocopy pages from a guide and we were carefree about finding a bed for the night in the albergues or hostels. We had faith and confidence that we would find the way, find food and a place to lay our heads at night. This turned out to be the case except for one night in Estrella (enter a pension room and a bathtub!!)
Now, with the communications revolution of the last 20 years, there are online forums and information sites. I love the chatty and connection part and you can get opinions and answers on all concerns. These past months I have seen photos and notices about the crowds setting out on the Camino Frances. This means that just launching out into the blue skies, green forests and along winding paths is a great challenge. Now I see that pilgrims book their hostels for the night and many have their packs transported to this accommodation. So oldie me says ‘How sad it has to be thus’. Where is spontaneity? No just finding a village with a hostel and deciding this is tonight’s refuge. It is wonderful to be able to go beyond or less far than you had in mind when you set out in the morning. With all booked and transported, you must go to where your pack has been delivered and a bunk assigned. This is obviously comforting. But do you go on a pilgrimage to have comfort?
It is a pilgrimage, – so more grumbles from me here comfy at home now – with all this extreme planning and need to make reservations, the pilgrimage nature of the Camino seems to have been lost. This is where I am a trifle confused. (Well maybe more judgmental!) It appears to be now a fitness tourism experience, perfect for those wanting something different, healthy and a bit of a challenge, not too expensive.
However, however, having got that off my chest, I have to say that I saw the other day on the Ivar Camino forum, a question: ‘What surprised you most about the Camino?’ and many responses were saying: The Spirituality. Well, that’s good and pleasing to hear…..but what did they expect! Disneyland?

OK Julia, just back off. Even with bookings, there are plenty of times and places to still suffer and be uncomfortable on the Way. Compassion is one of my challenges but I am getting help as I read ‘The Camino Is Not Just for Walking’ by a veteran pilgrim Danielle Aird. She has woven together her three Camino Francès pilgrimages. She drills down on the trail, telling of her encounters with other pilgrims and locals, such a big part of the Camino experience. She tells of her nights and meals in the stops, of the history. She is no longer a churchgoer at home, but she looks and ponders the art in churches and the statues and art along the path. She keeps on track with the reality of blisters, the snoring pilgrims and Camino ailments – many stomach aches and varieties of flu. (Most people on the Camino do seem to get bugs and blisters, I certainly did)
Yes, she booked her hostels, which means most of them were private ones, and at least, for the last time got her pack transported. And this all makes it possible to return and keep going. I have just come across the book by Georgiana Goddard King who walked the Camino a hundred years ago. I am excited to read this, and she also took the Camino Aragonès, my chosen way. I am sure her experience makes my Camino outings look tame and pampered.
When I walked the Camino Aragonès in April 2022, I would go for long stretches and meet no one. I had various albergue adventures: the first night the hostel was not even open, locked tight. The second night I was the only one in the whole medieval building. After that, I did have a couple of great nights in hostels that were part hotel with hostel rooms. Then one very traditional albergue and crowded. Plenty of room in others. Where I volunteered in Canfranc we could not take reservations, but we could make room if all the bunks were used. Along this ancient trail, most of the time you cannot reserve anyway. What I would like to urge Camino pilgrims to do is take one of the many other trails other than the Camino Frances. It will be wilder, with fewer cafés, fewer people, and more space.
Buen Camino.